It’s definitely my BEST lakeside holiday!!!
Lake Atitlán (Lago de Atitlán in Spanish) is one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, and the deepest one in Central America, with a maximum depth of about 340 meters. The lake is located in the southwestern part of Guatemala called the Highlands of Guatemala at 1,573 meters. It is one of Guatemala’s most important national and international tourist attraction.
The lake basin was formed nearly 85,000 years ago as a result of volcanic activity, leaving a picturesque body of water surrounded by three stunning dormant volcanoes (Volcán San Pedro, Volcán Tolimán, and Volcán Atitlán), rolling hills and photogenic Mayan villages that deserves to be your Central America travel itinerary.
The busy town of Panajachel, where vendors sell traditional textiles, is a popular gateway to this beautiful lake.
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The Chicken Bus
The cheapest transportation option in Guatemala is definitely the Chicken Bus, the country’s local bus connecting all of Guatemala’s villages, towns, and cities. Chicken Buses are the old retired American school buses that are festively painted.
The term “Chicken Bus” originates in Guatemala and comes from the fact that passengers would often transport live animals on them, although this doesn’t happen often anymore.
As seen in the documentary, La Camioneta (the local term for the vehicles), U.S. school buses are typically auctioned off after around 10 years or 150,000 miles.
There’s an entire industry of people who travel to these auctions to acquire them for USD 2,000 or less, then drive them back to Guatemala or other Central American countries. There, the school bus transforms into something vastly different.
Upon arrival, these buses are repaired, though one might doubt it when riding in one. The familiar yellow paint is replaced by wild & colourful designs.
Once renovated, Chicken Buses become the most common (often only) form of public transportation.
They’re often family businesses and usually staffed by two people– a grumpy driver on his cellphone and an assistant, who shouts out destinations from the opened doorway and collects fares, delivering change from a huge wad of cash stashed in their front pockets. They also help little old ladies with baggage, as well as stowing boxes and crates for people.
The experience of travelling on a Chicken Bus is normally hectic and slightly dangerous (don’t bring any valuables with you if you plan to take the Chicken Bus), but they are always entertaining and it gives you a taste of Guatemalan life, someone would say your trip to Guatemala will not complete without experiencing the Chicken Bus.
How to Get There?
Panajachel is the gateway for visitors visiting Lake Atitlán, from Guatemala City La Aurora International Airport (GUA), the distance to Panajachel is around 113 km with the travelling time of about 3.5 hours.
There are a few ways getting there, while taking the Chicken Bus might be the most economical way, but it’s going to take almost 5 hours or more, it has multiple stops and for such a long journey, you do not want to worry about your safety; Therefore, the best & easiest way is definitely hiring a private transfer, considering the cost, time & comfort.
You may check Adrenalina Tours for booking the private transfer and any tours in Guatemala.
- Take A Shuttle Bus (USD 25)
Shuttles leave regularly from Guatemala City Airport to Panajachel. However most shuttles are not direct and make stop over in Antigua. This makes the total travel time to the lake lasts for about 4.5 hours.
1. Shuttle Service – 0600 – Guatemala City/Airport to Panajachel USD 25 p/p
2. Shuttle Service – 1100 – Guatemala City/Airport to Panajachel USD 25 p/p
3. Shuttle Service – 1430 – Guatemala City/Airport to Panajachel USD 25 p/p
(this service makes a stop in Antigua and then continues to Panajachel, travel time 4 – 4.5 hours)
4. Direct Shuttle Service – 1430 – Guatemala City/Airport to Panajachel USD 35 p/p (min 3pax)
- Hire A Private Taxi (USD 120 – USD 130)
There are plenty of taxis available to take you directly to Panajachel on Lake Atitlán. They cost between USD 120 – USD 130 and take around 3 hours. You can either arrange one yourself outside of the terminal or book one through an agency at the airport.
- Hire A Helicopter (USD 1,000)
If you have the budget, you can fly directly to Lake Atitlán on a helicopter with the price between USD 1,000 – USD 1,400, arriving at the lake in style.
The main form of transportation around Lake Atitlán is the shuttle boat that goes from village to village. The most common boats start in Panajachel and end in San Pedro and there are two options. A faster direct one that cuts across the middle of the lake and the one that goes along the edge past the villages of Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, San Marcos and San Juan before stopping in San Pedro. It is always best to know the price and have exact change as being overcharged is quite common.
After arriving at Panajachel dock, depending on which village or hotel you are going, you can then get on a shuttle boat to your final destination.
The boats leave every 20-30 minutes. Shuttle boat services start at around 0630 with the last boat departing Panajachel at around 1930, the last one from San Pedro is at 1700. There is also a boat from San Pedro to Santiago a couple times a day.
Price of the shuttle boat (GTQ 1 = USD 0.13):
Panajachel to/from Santa Cruz/ Jaibalito – GTQ 10
Panajachel to/from San Marcos/ San Pablo/ San Juan/ San Pedro – GTQ 25
Panajachel to/from Santiago Atitlán – GTQ 25
What to Do in Lake Atitlán?
First of all, let’s take a look at the map of this beautiful volcanic lake. As you can see, there are many Mayan villages located around the lake. Among them, there are 6 main villages that lie along the banks of Lake Atitlán. Each one offers a different experience and view of the volcanoes. They are Panajachel, Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, San Marcos, San Juan and San Pedro.
Below I am sharing some of the things you can do while visiting Lake Atitlán:
Panajachel
Panajachel or Pana as the locals and expats call it, is one of the largest towns along the lake. The reason for this is two fold. First, a major road connects Pana with the city of Sololá and further to the outside world. Second, the city is home to a large number of US and European expats.
As a result Pana is arguably the most convenient town on the lake. It hosts multiple humanitarian NGO’s, Spanish schools, real estate offices, mormon missionaries, high-end hotels and restaurants, and even a western grocery store.
It has the best sunsets, the best nightlife and easily the best market, so if you’re looking to stock up on beautiful Mayan clothes and textiles, this place is a must.
And for the adventure seeker, you can do paragliding in Panajachel, imagine flying over Lake Atitlán with the volcanoes under your feet, how amazing!
Reserva Natural Atitlán
If you are someone who loves nature, why not visit the Reserva Natural Atitlán while you are at Panajachel. It is a gateway to the magnificent nature of Lake Atitlán.
The Reserve’s zip lines, butterfly preserve, trails, hanging bridges and lodgings bring you in close contact with nature. On the zip lines, you fly above waterfalls, coffee groves, oak stands and the steep cliffs that guard the lake. Some trails are ancient, many bridges unexpected, and everywhere you hear the sounds of water, birds, and the wind.
At the Butterfly Geodome you enjoy the colours and forms of hundreds of butterflies surrounded by flowers and the sounds of water. Humming birds and the murmur of the river accompany you while you have lunch, coffee or a drink.
The reserve opens daily from 0800 to 1700, the entrance ticket is GTQ 70 (USD 9). Check out the Reserva Natural Atitlán website for more information.
San Pedro Volcano Hike
With three dramatic volcanoes situated around the lake, hiking up to at least one of them is on most people’s Atitlán bucket list.
San Pedro Volcano (3,020 meters) hands down the best view of Lake Atitlán. You can see his volcano brothers around the lake and further. The hike is a challenging 1,400 meters of elevation gain, it takes about 5 hours round trip to complete it, depending on your fitness level.
Unlike other volcano treks, you can do this one on your own. The path is well-kept, but make sure you bring warm clothes as it gets chilly at the top. Try to start as early as possible, as clouds pass over the volcano at noon and the visibility becomes poor.
The trail starts a few hundred feet above water level. There’s a tourism booth on the road towards Santiago where you have to pay the entrance fee of GTQ 100 (USD 13). The price includes a local guide, even though you can hike on your own, you might want to consider going with them as a security and supporting the local guides. I have heard visitors having problems with the local police while reaching the top of the volcano, because of miscommunications & language barrier. It has also been reported of bandits attacking tourists at the summit.
From the top you can see neighbouring Tolimán and Atitlán Volcanoes to the south. On a clear day you can even see Acatenango and Fuego Volcanoes (south east behind the other two mentioned above).
The hike can be done year round. Best time of the year is mid-November to March. Rainy season is from May to October.
San Pedro La Laguna
San Pedro is a busy village with shops, restaurants and markets, it is best known for its Spanish schools and nightlife. If you are looking to meet new friends and socialise, as a popular backpacker hub, you’ll find plenty of people to talk to and places to go. It is likely the best place to stay in Lake Atitlán for backpackers and those who enjoy a social touristy vibe!
It is located directly beneath San Pedro Volcano, and is a starting place for many different hikes. I’d suggest you go to one of the restaurants overlooking the beautiful lake for your lunch or dinner.
San Juan La Laguna
San Juan La Laguna is just a five minute drive from the busy San Pedro, if you are going there by boat from other villages, it’s between 10-20 minutes. This colourful town has hardly any tourists and it is extremely clean and tranquil. Known especially for its art, it’s a great place to pick up some canvases to take home. If you fancy it, you can try your hand at traditional weaving at Lema – but if not, you can purchase some gorgeous woven Mayan textiles from here too.
Like every town around Lake Atitlán, San Juan boasts lovely views of the expansive blue lake and lush vegetation in its vibrant gardens.
Shop at the Local Markets
The area around Lake Atitlán is rife with markets, each of them is slightly different but all of them are filled with local life. Whether you are looking for local bites, pick up gifts or souvenirs, buying textiles and canvases, or shopping for fridge magnets or postcards, the local markets in this region are ideal for visitors. You’ll find bigger markets at Panajachel, Santiago, and San Pedro.
Watch Sunrise from Indian’s Nose
If you love sunrises, hiking Indian’s Nose is a must. Indian’s Nose got its name because the profile of the mountain looks like an indigenous man’s face, and the peak (the ‘nose’) was considered sacred by the Mayans. Start early at around 0330 and you will be at the summit before the sunrise. When you are up there, enjoy the morning breeze and fresh air, you’ll soon be rewarded with stunning views of the sun rising over the misty lake.
This hike starts in the village of San Juan and it is shorter than San Pedro Volcano hike, it takes between 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the top and slightly less to get back down. Although guides here don’t cost much and are usually helpful, you don’t really need one. There are a few spots along the way where the farmers now charge access fees to cross their land. You can estimate a minimum of GTQ 20 per person to get in the park.
Lastly, don’t forget to bring your jacket as it gets quite chilly up there in the morning.
Thermal Bath
If you manage to scale the volcano, you should probably give yourself a treat – and what better way to soothe your aching muscles than with a thermal soak? San Pedro has several options for a long hot soak, but Los Termales, is one of the best. For about GTQ 40 (USD 5) you can treat your tired legs – and best of all, it’s bring your own booze (BYOB) too.
Even if you are not doing any hike, still you should experience it, some hotels have their own thermal bath with a great view of the lake.
Kayaking
Another best way of enjoying the serenity of the lake is definitely by kayaking. With the calmness of the lake and the gorgeous surroundings, you immerse yourself entirely into the nature, feeling the great energy and it’s so refreshing.
You can rent a kayak from one of the companies on the harbour or from your hotel for about GTQ 15 (USD 2), and depending on how far you wish to go, you can paddle over to a neighbouring village or beach.
The ‘Secret’ Hamlet of Jaibalito
Jaibalito isn’t really a secret, but it is the town few people seem to know about, it is inaccessible by road and there are no cars. You can only reach there by boat or hiking. And it’s because of this isolation, Jaibalito remains the most authentic and charming Mayan village on Lake Atitlán.
Although Jaibalito doesn’t get many tourists, it does have a few unique accommodation options. There are also a couple of great places to eat.
This little place offers gorgeous, unspoilt views out onto the lake and with friendly, welcoming locals. Club Ven Aca, with its hot tub and infinity pool overlooking the lake, is well worth a visit.
Learn Spanish in San Pedro
Guatemala is the best place in Latin America to learn Spanish because of the clear accent. If you’re hoping to brush up on your language skills while you’re here, why not study in San Pedro, where there are several excellent language schools and they are quite economical. Because Spanish is the second language of the locals (the population of Lake Atitlán is mainly Mayan), you’ll find that speech is slower here, so it’s even easier than Antigua to pick up a new language.
Many people choose the homestay option so they are truly immersed in learning. They usually sign up for a week at a time and take 3-4 hours of classes each weekday with group activities on the weekend. Alternately, you can be more relaxed with your own schedule by hiring a private teacher or a teacher from Lake Atitlán Spanish School to give 1-hour classes a couple times a week.
Coffee Farm Tour
This Central American country is well known for its quality coffee, and it’s no less famous around Lake Atitlán. The rich, volcanic soil around the lake, as well as the relatively high altitude, they are ideal conditions for coffee-growing.
One of the best things to do in Lake Atitlán is going for a coffee tour, where you will be seeing how they grow the plants and roast the coffee. Learning the whole process is really an eye-opening experience. At the end of the tour, you will be served a cup of hot Guatemalan coffee, making it a perfect finish of the tour.
Tuk Tuk Ride
You’ll see Tuk Tuk in most of the villages around Lake Atitlán, that’s the main mode of public transportation if you are travelling around the lake. The base price to anywhere around the village is GTQ 5 per person. If you are taking them from village to village the price varies – e.g. GTQ 10 from San Pedro to San Juan or San Marcos to San Pablo and more for a longer trip. Make sure you confirm the price before taking, especially from village to village.
Get on one of the Tuk Tuks and that’s a very fun way of exploring the village, you can even make a deal with the driver for booking the ride by hour. Trust me, they are very keen to show you their village and cultures, they know where to bring you and ensure you have a great time, I totally did!
Relaxing in a Hammock
After the day of exploring the Mayan villages, discovering the lake with some active activities. You should get a book, lay down in a hammock right by the lake and enjoy the sunset at the same time. With such a breathtaking scenery around Lake Atitlán while you are lying quietly in a secluded spot, it definitely gives you the ultimate relaxation, and this is the essential lake experience you want to have.
Where to Stay?
If you are visiting Lake Atitlán, you must be wondering which village to stay. Every village has its charm and no matter where you are staying, you will still enjoy the beautiful lake and have direct access to it and the mountains. Most importantly, you can travel between the villages easily by hopping on the shuttle boat or taking tuk tuk.
Panajachel & San Pedro are bustling and lively towns with nightlife, great touristy vibes, and they are also great places for shopping and dining.
Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, San Marcos, San Juan & Santiago are less touristy, very quiet and tranquil, good for relaxation and you can really unwind yourself.
I’d highly recommend you staying at La Casa del Mundo in Jaibalito to spend your lakeside vacation. The hotel is beautifully seated on the cliff facing the gorgeous lake with the backdrop of volcanoes, the location is perfect! I can assure you are going to have a relaxing and memorable holiday like no others, get inspired and rejuvenated by the breathtaking scenery.
Accessible only by boat or on foot, Jaibalito hosts Guatemala’s most magical hotel. Perched on a secluded cliff, it has gorgeous gardens, swimming holes and a hot tub overhanging the lake.
– “Lonely Planet”
La Casa del Mundo has 17 bedrooms, each with unique architecture, they were built one by one into the lake’s cliff sides over the past 20 years. They’re equipped with top quality beds, hot water (mostly solar heated), restrooms, traditional Mayan decorations, and spectacular lake views from their 100-250 feet high perches.
“Make your heart like a lake with a calm, still surface and great depths of kindness.”
– Lao Tzu
You can always check in booking.com or AirBnB to look for the accommodation that suits you.
My Itinerary
Guatemala city > Lake atitlán > Antigua > Tikal
We spent 4 days in Lake Atitlán and it was clearly not enough, this place has so much to offer. I love hiking a lot and it’s a regret that I didn’t get to hike to at least one of the mountains in Lake Atitlán, I wish I had more time to spend there, a week would have been perfect!
If you are staying at a nice hotel like La Casa del Mundo with stunning views of the lake, you would wish to have one day of doing nothing but just staying in and enjoy the environment, relax on the terrace with a cup of coffee, laying in a hammock reading a book, and soak yourself in a thermal pool.
Every morning, I look forward to the breakfast that is served on the terrace, it is thoughtfully prepared by the hotel using fresh ingredients! Enjoying it with a cup of hot Guatemalan coffee, nothing feels better than that.
Getting to Lake Atitlán from where I am living is an extremely long journey. As soon as I got there, I just wanted to rest and relax. It’s definitely the perfect place to get rid of all the tiredness and stress from travelling.
Before going for Acatenango Volcano overnight hike in Antigua, I was glad I started my Guatemala holiday here. Otherwise, I don’t think I would have survived the strenuous hike without proper rest.
The few days by the lake we were really taking it easy; we did kayaking, swimming in the lake, sitting on the terrace planning the remaining part of our trip, hopping on the boat visiting San Juan and San Pedro, did some shopping, etc.
I had a wonderful time, I will definitely be returning in the future, probably take up a few Spanish lessons, attend cooking class and do at least 1-2 hikes watching sunrise on top of the mountain.
My Guatemala Travel Video
Take a look at my amazing Guatemala trip: