Perito Moreno Glacier – an Unbelievable Experience

seeing the glacier is
MIND-BLOWING !!!

If you ask me what is one of the most impressive things I have seen, I’d say it is definitely seeing the Perito Moreno Glacier

Los Glaciares National Park in Argentine Patagonia is home to the Perito Moreno Glacier. The park is 75 km west of El Calafate, the town where most people stay when visiting the glacier. It is one of the most important tourist attractions in the Argentine Patagonia. 

Some FACTS about Perito Moreno Glacier

  • It was named in honour of the Argentinian explorer Francisco Moreno, who played an important role in the border dispute between Argentina and Chile in the 19th century.
  • It is the third largest reserve of fresh water on the planet.
  • It is covering a total of 100 square miles, the glacier is 3 miles wide and rises 78 meters above the lake Lago Argentino, with its deepest point stretching to approximately 700 meters.
  • Despite the global warming, this glacier is growing, moving forward around 2 meters a day.

How to Get There & How Much?

El Calafate is my second stop after visiting El Chaltén, we booked on a shuttle bus directly from El Chaltén to our accommodation in El Calafate. Journey is 3.5 hours and the ticket costs around USD 25 per person.

If you arrive at the El Calafate airport (FTE) and you would like to go to the city first, it’s just 20 minutes away.

From the city centre, walk to the main bus terminal and purchase your bus ticket to Perito Moreno Glacier, at the same time you can also purchase the park ticket to the glacier. I’d recommend you to buy the ticket one day in advance to secure your seats, especially during peak season between November to March.

There are a few bus companies running the route, CalTur and Chaltén Travel are the 2 main ones. The bus journey is 1.5 hours and it costs around USD 30 return. First departure is at 0800.

… bring some Argentine Pesos …

The entrance fee for Los Glaciares National Park is ARS 800 (USD 13). Do remember to bring some Argentine Pesos with you, from my experience, they don’t take USD and credit card. You do not want to have any hassles when you are going to see one of the greatest natural wonders.

What to Do at the Los Glaciares National Park?

To visit the glacier, you can either join a tour or go on your own. I took the latter option to have more freedom, and cheaper of course. It is actually very easy to go independently, after buying the bus and park ticket, you are all set! 

Boardwalk and viewing platform at the park!

Boardwalk and viewing platform are built in the park, making the visit very enjoyable and easy. You are able to watch the glacier up close and personal, but still at a safe distance away. There are information signs in the park for you to know about the glacier and the history. 

While the glacier may seem frozen, it is actually on the move. As it grows, huge chunks break off the face of it, the splash creating a spectacular show. This phenomenon is called ice calving, or glacier calving

… dress warm, bring some snacks, get ready to see the Ice Calving

You must not miss the this incredible phenomenon, spend a little longer at the viewing platform and patiently wait for it to happen. The temperature is higher in the afternoon, therefore the chances of seeing ice calving is better. It is going to be very cold being so close to the glacier, dress warm and bring some snacks and a thermos flask filled with hot coffee, so you’ll stay warm and comfortable, while waiting for the magical moment.

Waiting patiently for witnessing ice calving!

Get your camera ready and when it happens, you are going to witness the ice breaking off and plummeting down into the turquoise water, the thunderous rumble of cracking ice can be heard from all over the park. I couldn’t hold my excitement when I saw it happening, jumping and screaming like a kid. The feeling of excitement is overwhelming. Sometimes the wonder of nature simply cannot be described by words!  

Go there on a sunny day for best photographs of the glacier, when the blue of the ice will really shine.

… take a Boat Tour to get closer to the glacier …

Once you are at the park, you have the option to book on a boat tour. You will get up to 100 meters away from the face of Perito Moreno Glacier, having a spectacular perspective from the water’s level. You’ll see a small booth with a sign saying ‘Navegacion’ at the park entrance, there’s where you buy your ticket. There should be a departure every hourly, the tour last for 1.5 hours and the price is around USD 20, it usually include a snack and a whisky with glacier ice at the end.

…go Glacier Trekking, expensive but it’s an experience of a lifetime …

If you have the budget, I’d strongly recommend you to join the tour to Perito Moreno Glacier with Glacier Trekking, it’s expensive but I think it’s an experience of a lifetime. I wish I had done it when I was there.

You will be given crampons and ice axes and be taken on a guided trek, imagine walking on this enormous glacier and feel the crack of the ice right under your feet, I believe it’s going to be an experience you will never forget.

There are two options for the Glacier Trekking:

  • Big Ice Trek costs around ARS 4000 (USD 275), it’s a full experience where you will get the chance of visiting ice cave, walking further up on the glacier, of course it’s more challenging physically.
  • Mini Trek costs around ARS 2400 (USD 156).

“ The most beautiful gift of nature is that it gives one pleasure to look around and try to comprehend what we see. ”

– Albert Einstein


When is the BEST Time to Go?

The best time to visit the glacier is between November and March. The summer months come with clear skies and warmer weather. However, that also means it will be packed with tourists. Spend at least 3 days in El Calafate because you’d want to see the glacier at its best, give yourself some buffer in case the weather changes. 

If you’d like to avoid tourist crowd, maybe you can consider visiting in October and April. 

The visit of Perito Moreno Glacier is often combined with Mount Fitz Roy Hikes in El Chaltén which is 3 hours away, that makes a complete Argentine Patagonia itinerary. 

 

 

Mount Fitz Roy – The Beautiful Argentine Patagonia

absolutely BREATHTAKING!
one of the most BEAUTIFUL places to hike!

Mount Fitz Roy is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village and Viedma lake.  

You might not have heard about Mount Fitz Roy but you have definitely heard about the American clothing brand, Patagonia. The Patagonia logo is a stylistic version of the Mount Fitz Roy.

The Fitz Roy hike is like no others. The hike takes the whole day from morning til evening, about 11-12 hours including break time, photos and picnic at De los Tres Lagoon, the highest point of the Fitz Roy trek. The day hike is a long and strenuous hike with an amazing view along the way and at the end, making it the most beautiful hike in Patagonia. 

At the highest elevation of the Fitz Roy hike, De los Tres Lagoon, with the altitude of approximately 1200M.

El Chaltén – The Capital of Trekking

Most of the trailheads start in the town of El Chaltén, you can say it’s a hiker’s mecca right in the Fitz Roy range. One of the delights of hiking here is that without taking any transport, you can spend each day exploring all the different viewpoints, lagoons and mountains and return each evening to a comfortable hotel in this welcoming, lively mountain village. You can then take a hot shower, get changed and immediately head out for your well-deserving dinner at the restaurants nearby. 

Welcome to the Capital of Trekking!

How to Get to El Chaltén?

The very first step to begin your adventure in the Argentine Patagonia is to fly to El Calafate (FTE). There are flights operating daily from most of Argentina’s major hubs, including Ushuaia and Buenos Aires.

Once you land into El Calafate airport, you should see shuttle buses & minivans waiting for the flights arrival to transport passengers to either El Calafate city centre or El Chaltén. You may buy the ticket directly from them and that’s the cheapest way to go to El Chaltén.    

The journey from El Calafate airport to El Chaltén is about 215 km, it takes around 3 hours. One way bus ticket should cost you around ARS 1900 (USD 22). There are three bus companies: Caltur, with 3 departures a day, El Chaltén, with up to 5 departures a day, and TAQSA, which leaves at least twice a day. The earliest bus leaves at 0800 and the latest at 1800. These buses often sell out during the high season (December – February), so book your tickets in advance. The buses are generally clean, comfortable and have bathroom facilities onboard.

The scenic journey from El Calafate to El Chaltén!

You can also choose private transfer or hire a car, giving you more flexibility to stop for pictures or bathroom break along the way. The 3 hours journey is very scenic as you will be passing Lake Argentino as well as Lake & Glacier Viedma, at the same time you’ll be immersing yourself in the views of Cerro Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. This is going to get you so excited even before you arrive at El Chaltén, surrounded by the beautiful landscapes.

The sunkissed Mount Fitz Roy!

Where to Stay at El Chaltén?

Once you get to the centre of El Chaltén, on both sides of the main road, San Martin, you will see plenty of accommodation choices, there’s something for everyone.

During peak season (December – February), you better make your booking in advance to avoid disappointment . Also, if you already have your booking, you’ll be able to tell the bus company when you buy your shuttle bus ticket at El Calafate airport and they will drop you directly at your hotel. 

I visited El Chaltén in 2016, we were staying at Patagonia Travellers’ Hostel, the price is reasonable and it’s very well located, in the heart of the village.  Restaurants, grocery stores, cafes, and souvenir shops are within walking distance. The rooms are very clean, the staff speak good English and they are very helpful in providing information regarding the hikes. There’s also a shared kitchen for the guest to use. Overall, we had a wonderful experience there.

We cooked our dinner before waking up the next day for our Mount Fitz Roy hike!

You may check out their website for more information: www.patagoniahostel.com.ar 


The Hikes around Mount Fitz Roy 

 “Laguna de los Tres Trail”

Total Distance: 26 km
Duration: 11 hours
Highest Elevation: 1200M
Difficulty: 5/5
View: 5/5 

This trail is the most popular one to do in El Chaltén, it provides arguably the best viewpoint in the national park. Los Tres (the Three) refers to the peaks of Mount Fitz Roy, Poincenot and Torre, all of which can be seen in the magnificent 360 degree views from the shores of the lake. It is a strenuous hike, at the same time it is extremely rewarding. Throughout this entire 26 km trail, you’ll get to see the flora and fauna of this Argentine Patagonia. This is absolutely one of the most scenic hikes I have ever done, the snow capped mountains are seen throughout the whole trail and that makes the hike very enjoyable, it feels like you are embraced completely by the beautiful nature.

Get a trekking map from your hotel and you are good to go! You will find signs along the way so you don’t have to worry about getting lost. You are going to have a lot of fun and enjoy every moment throughout the hike.  

Mountain village of El Chaltén!

On the San Martin main road, walk to the end and you’ll find the trailhead to Fitz Roy and that’s where you begin your hike. 

The starting point!

As you can see from this sign at the entrance of the trail, it’s very straight forward and the viewpoints are shown. You are heading to Laguna de los Tres where you’re going to get a close and magnificent shot of the snow capped Mount Fitz Roy.

The signboard of the trail at the entrance!
The magnificent Mount Fitz Roy!

The first viewpoint is “Río de las Vueltas”, the Vueltas River, is a river course located in the Lago Argentino department.  It descends towards the Viedma lake, making numerous curves through lenga forests and vertical walls. It is one of the most important rivers in the area and transports water from the melting of glaciers in the region.

First viewpoint, “Río de las Vueltas”!
I am totally in love with the surrounding! 

Keep following the trail and you will come to the second viewpoint, “Mirador del Fitz Roy”, the lookout point of Fitz Roy. This is where you’ll get an unobstructed & gorgeous view of Mount Fitz Roy.

A perfect view of Mount Fitz Roy at the second viewpoint!
Halfway checkpoint before arriving at Laguna de los Tres!

After this lookout point, you’ll be more relaxed as the following 3-4 km will be mostly flat before you get to the Poincenot campsite. Enjoy breathing in the fresh air and immerse yourself in the nature. You’ll see streams with clean cold glacier water, according to the local, it is absolutely safe to drink. I trusted them and took a mouthful of water, it’s so refreshing! I didn’t have any stomach discomfort after, ha! 

You’ll then come across a junction, where you can go to Laguna Torre taking your left, that’s another beautiful lagoon you’ll have to check it out. But for this trail you are taking the right, continue on to Laguna de los Tres. 

Turn left to Laguna Torre, turn right to Laguna de los Tres!

The final part of this trail is the hardest, be prepared as it gets steeper and rocky, and the temperature drops significantly. Take your time to slowly and carefully ascend and you will soon arrive at the lagoon. 

Laguna de los Tres!
Standing on the frozen Laguna de los Tres!

Enjoy the Mount Fitz Roy up close, your best reward after the tough hike. Now you can enjoy your lunch break, and take all your time for capturing the beauty of the surrounding. Even though the best season to visit the Argentine Patagonia is during the summer months, however, on colder months, the lagoon gets completely frozen and you can walk on it, it’s another different experience.

Lucky for us, we spotted a few wild foxes up there around the lagoon, they were so shy and adorable. That has made our whole hike even more memorable.

Take the same path for returning to El Chaltén.

 “Laguna Torre Trail”

Total Distance: 20 km
Duration: 9 hours
Highest Elevation: 560M
Difficulty: 3/5
View: 5/5 

Beside Laguna de los Tres, this is another great classic trail you don’t want to miss. It is a valley trek that will take you to an overwhelming site of mountains and glaciers. The trail enters the valley of the Fitz Roy river and follows up alongside the stream to its source.

This trail difficulty level is moderate and it’s suitable for everyone. It offers a total different scenery than the Laguna de los Tres trail. You are going to see valley that is so stunning, glaciers, waterfalls, different kind of trees and flowers, also special species of birds can be spotted. 

The steep and beautiful valley!
Waterfall and the turquoise river!

Most of the ascending of this trail is at the beginning, the second half of the trail is mostly flat with some up and down sections. 

Laguna Torre Trail is well-marked all the way, there’s no confusion point at all. You just need to get a trekking map and you can enjoy the trek at your own pace. 

Woodpecker

 
When you finally get to Laguna Torre, you will be blown away by what you see. Cerro Torre, an iconic mountain towering behind and a glacier that spills into Laguna Torre, ice bergs can be seen floating on it. It is just so captivating! I have never seen anything like this. 

It’s UNBELIEVABLE!!!

From Laguna Torre, you can hike to Mirador Maestri, a lookout point of the glacier. The ascent is about 300 meters, estimate about an hour time to reach. We regretted that we didn’t make it there, especially after seeing pictures of others. The view up there is amazing, you’ll get a great view of the glacier. Well, that gives me a reason to go back, and at the same time exploring more trails. 

Laguna Torre

 “Laguna de los Tres + Laguna Torre Circuit Trail”

If you are looking for something more adventurous, you can combine both of the classic trails into this circuit trail, with the total distance of 35 km. In order for you to have sufficient time to truly enjoy the nature and taking photographs, you may consider this camping itinerary:

Day 1: Begin your hike to Laguna de los Tres and spend a night at the Poincenot campsite. You can leave your bags and equipments at the campsite before going to the lagoon. 

Day 2: From Poicenot campsite, head to El Chaltén direction and shortly you’ll arrive at the junction where there’s a sign showing you the direction to Laguna Torre. You’ll continue to hike about 7 km to reach there.  From Laguna Torre, you will hike directly back to El Chaltén. 

Of course, there are more trails you can do in and around El Chaltén if you have more time. 

Some hiking trails in and around El Chaltén!

“ Throw yourselves into the wild nature and let the Nature does wonders to your brain, body and soul! ”

– Raynard Jackle


What Do You Need for the Day Hike?

Hiking Gear
  • Hiking Shoe 
  • Backpack 
  • Walking Stick 
    Clothing
  • Mountain Walking Fleece
  • Light Weighted Warm Jacket 
  • Windbreaker 
  • Winter Hat/ Beanie
  • Gloves
    Miscellaneous
  • 1.5L of Drinking Water
  • Sandwiches, Energy Bars, Mixed Trail Nuts & Chocolate
  • Cellphone and Power Bank
  • Camera/ GoPro
  • Wet Wipes
  • Plastic Bag – for packing your trash bringing back to El Chaltén for disposal.

No matter you are an adventure enthusiast or simply just a nature lover, El Chaltén is definitely a place to be. Escape from the urban life, spend a few days in this mountain village, throw yourselves into the wild nature and let the Nature does wonders to your brain, body and soul! 

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