OTHERWORLDLY landscapes!!!
Do you know northern Chile’s Atacama Desert is the driest and oldest desert on Earth? On average, the Atacama receives less than one milli-meter of rainfall each year. Research shows that some of the Atacama’s riverbeds have been dry for 120,000 years.
Geographically, the aridity of the Atacama is explained by it being surrounded by the Andes and the Chilean Coast Range, the two mountain chains of sufficient height to prevent moisture advection from either the Pacific Ocean from the west or the Atlantic Ocean from the east, a two-sided rain shadow. Therefore, it prevents the formation of clouds and rain, the desert is a death zone for vegetation, with water and nutrients being deprived.
Unlike other deserts around the world, like the Sahara, temperature can soar above 50 degrees Celsius. But temperatures in the Atacama are comparatively mild throughout the year. The average temperature in the desert is about 18 degrees Celsius.
Many would think that this vast desert offers nothing special except for its massive sand dunes, that’s totally not the case! It turns out Atacama Desert, with its rust-colored rock canyons, snow-capped volcanoes, endless salt flats, steaming & gurgling geysers and turquoise lagoons, is home to dozens of species of plants and animals and a wonderful array of geological features. It was an eye-opening experience for me being there, 4 days spent in this spectacular desert was definitely too short. There are too many things to see and to do.
Owing to its otherworldly appearance, the Atacama has been used as a location for filming Mars scenes in movies.
San Pedro de Atacama – the Gateway to the Desert
The town of San Pedro de Atacama is a compact collection of small adobes and wooden buildings with no more than 2,000 inhabitants, and there are 3,000 inhabitants living in rural areas.
San Pedro de Atacama is a very simple town, you will see dirt streets stretching from the town into the desert and disappear. It is a small town with buildings not over two stories high, taking a walk in the town you feel like you are traveling back in time.
The streets are lined with restaurants, bars, shops, boutiques, tour operators, etc. There are also plenty of accommodation choices you can easily find.
I enjoyed so much strolling along the streets & visiting the traditional shops. In this era of fast urban development, this undeveloped & primitive town has become so precious and charming.
Just outside of this bustling little town is an emptiness that feels extraterrestrial.
How to Get There?
Atacama Desert is a cool & arid region in northern Chilé. International travelers arriving into Santiago (SCL) can take a domestic connection onwards to Calama (CJC) before getting to the desert.
LATAM airlines & Sky airlines have frequent connection for this route.
The distance between the two cities is 1221 km with the flying time of around 2 hours 10 mins.
The closest airport to San Pedro de Atacama is Airport El Loa Calama (CJC), located around 101 km away, with the traveling time of about 1.5 hours.
Once you are landed into Calama (CJC), you can take the shared shuttle from the airport to your accommodation in San Pedro de Atacama. One-way shuttle costs CLP 12,000 (USD 15), and round trip costs CLP 20,000 (USD 25).
The shuttle is available for all flights arriving at the airport before 2100, and for flights with departure from the airport before 2200.
You can book and secure your shuttle from this official website, and someone will be waiting for your arrival with your name on a sign.
What to Do in Atacama Desert?
Atacama is a proof of how life can flourish even in the harshest of conditions, the aridity in Atacama Desert has made this place the driest place on Earth, therefore the sky over there is one of the bluest you’ll ever see. In contrast to the rust-colored desert and canyons, it’s not exaggerating at all to say it’s just like landscape paintings coming to life.
Let us take a look at some of the ATTRACTIONS you must not miss in the Atacama:
Altiplanic Lagoons (Miscanti and Miñiques)
Located 90 km from San Pedro de Atacama, Miscanti and Miñiques Lagoons are at over 4,000 meters above sea level. Both lagoons are fed by water sources that come from the surface of the land, attracting a great variety of animals like flamingos, a severe contrast surrounded by snow capped mountains are beautifully reflected in the water. It is so blue and pristine that you’d swear they were artificial.
In the Miscanti & Miñiques Lagoons, you will find purity in the air. The beauty of the landscape can be seen walking on the shores of each one of the desert lagoons, which natural wealth will make you a part of their vastness.
El Tatio Geysers
No visit to Atacama is complete without a frigid pre-dawn journey to El Tatio Geysers.
Geysers are the result of volcanic activity heating up cold rivers deep underground. Everywhere you look in the Atacama you can see evidence of these volcanoes.
The geothermal field at El Tatio in the Atacama Desert, located at 4,320 meters above sea level, is the highest place in the world to see geysers.
If you are not used to high altitudes, take a few days to acclimatize in San Pedro de Atacama to avoid altitude sickness.
The best time of the day to see geysers and fumaroles is at sunrise. So whether you are driving to El Tatio or joining a tour, you’ll have to wake up as early as 4am so you will get there in time to see the geysers at its best.
At sunrise, the weather on ground at such high altitude is extremely cold while the heat rising from the Geysers themselves reaches an extremely hot boiling point creating tall and picturesque fumaroles, the big temperature difference under & above the ground forms the steam to spout as high as 50-60 meters.
The 2 hours bumpy drive from San Pedro de Atacama to El Tatio Geysers at this early hour is not going to be easy, but when you finally get there and witness the phenomenon yourself, you will finally understand why it is attracting so many visitors going there. It definitely worth sacrificing a little bit of your sleeping time! (Well, you can actually catch up your sleep during the 2 hours journey in the van, I was able to despite all the bumps throughout the journey.)
There are over 500 geo-thermals, in which 80 are active geysers. The altiplano around the El Tatio Geysers has unique flora and fauna that can survive at a high altitude. Vicunas, a miniature cousin of the llama, can be seen grazing lazily on the yellow tufts of grass.
Dress warm and with layers, over 4,000 meters, it’s going to be freezing up there at El Tatio Geysers.
Pack with you a towel and your swimming costume for the tour as seeing the impressive geysers is not the only thing to do, you might be tempted to plunge into the hot thermal pool at El Tatio. On a chilly morning, it feels so good to soak yourself in the natural hot spring, heated by the volcanic rocks.
The El Tatio Geysers tour includes “breakfast-by-the-geyser” where your guides will set up a table full of warm toasts with ham, cheese, jam and caramel spread served with hot coffee & tea, after you have finished admiring the phenomenon and enjoyed the hot spring. It’s a simple breakfast but having all of these prepared for you over 4,000 meters by the spectacular geysers was definitely one of the best breakfast experience I have ever had.
Moon and Mars Valley
From San Pedro de Atacama, you just need to travel a few kilometers and you will be arriving on the moon and the Mars, yes you heard me!
The Moon Valley & Mars Valley are among the most visited places of San Pedro de Atacama, there are no other places in the world look like these valleys, you literally feel like you are there on the moon and Mars. The sprawling landscape is nothing but impressive!
The peculiar rocky formations and dunes of Moon Valley and the changing colors of Mars Valley and the Salt Mountains are an attraction that you must not miss while visiting Atacama Desert.
At night, both places become the most romantic spot for stargazing. Located about 15 km away from San Pedro de Atacama, you can get to these mystical settings on bike, trek around them and enjoy sand-boarding on the dunes.
The Moon Valley is best to be visited before sunset as you will be witnessing the magical color transformation, an experience you will never forget.
Remember, you are in the desert so do expect large fluctuations in temperatures between day and night, don’t forget your jacket as you are going to need it after the sun has set.
Most of the tours depart after lunch so you will have ample of time to spend and explore the valleys, take pictures and getting to the final spot for one of the most beautiful sunset you have ever seen.
Atacama Salt Flat (Salar de Atacama)
Salar de Atacama is the 3rd largest salt flat in the world (the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia is substantially larger.), located 55 km south of San Pedro de Atacama. Cradled at the foot of the Andes Mountains, the Salar de Atacama was formed by water flowing from these peaks and collecting in the Atacama Desert below. Unable to escape from this desert basin, the water evaporated, leaving behind deposits of crusted white and brown salt.
The lake under the salt flat has one of the largest lithium reserves in the world. This mineral is highly used in the technology industry, and it is exploited in the southern area of the flat. This salt layer has holes which have become small lagoons which are home to a number of aquatic birds, such as flamingos & red-gartered coots.
The Flamingos at Chaxa Lagoon
The Chaxa Lagoon is the best place in Chilé to see flamingos. It is also the most easily accessible flamingo-breeding site in the Los Flamencos National Reserve (Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos).
Chaxa Lagoon is an extraordinary pool of water in the middle of a salt desert. Come here early in the day to watch a pink hue from the light of the sunrise over the salty water. Tour the lagoon to learn about the birds, their ecosystem and the lagoon’s geological implications.
Although the Atacama Desert’s extreme environment poses distinct challenges for all inhabitants, including human, the resilient flamingo is one creature who can adapt to even the harshest of them all.
There are three species of flamingo reside here: the James, the Andean and the Chiléan. Spot other types of birds, such as the Andean avocet and the sandpiper, which preys on tiny creatures in the water.
Best time to visit the Chaxa Lagoon is during sunrise or sunset, when the area’s birds are most active and easiest to photograph. Whether are you a bird’s lover or a photographer, you know exactly when to go to admire the lagoon at its best.
Stargazing
Sunrise Hot Air Balloon Ride
Sand Boarding
Ever wanted to get some adrenaline rush at the driest place on Earth that looks like outer space? At Valle de la Muerte (Mars Valley), sand boarding can be practiced on some of the soft sand dunes, which reach up to 120 meters in height.
I wish I had more time in the Atacama and I would have definitely gone for this fun activity.
Book your Sand Boarding Tour HERE.
The Tours
It is true renting a car might be the best way to explore Atacama Desert at your own pace, but having travelled there after thousands of miles both flying and on the road, taking a tour might be an option you would consider as you can relax in the vehicle while exploring the desert and let your guide take care of the rest.
There are many tours to the desert attractions, the promotional pack is definitely a good deal that you can save both time and money, see the most of the desert especially if you are just having a short stay.
- Promotional Pack: 3 Tours/ 2 days (CLP 70,000 / USD 85)
Itinerary:
DAY 1
"Altiplanic Lagoons and Salar de Atacama"
Departure 06:30 hours
Return 14:00 hours
"Valley of the Moon"
Departure 15:00 hours
Return 19:00 hours
DAY 2
"El Tatio Geysers"
Departure 05:00 to 05:30 hours
(pick up from hotel/hostel)
Return 13:30 hours
- Promotional Pack: 5 Tours / 3 days (CLP 105,500 / USD 128)
Itinerary:
DAY 1
"Altiplanic Lagoons and Salar de Atacama"
Departure 06:00 to 06:30 hours
(pick up from hotel/hostel)
Return 14:00 hours
"Valley of the Moon"
Departure 15:00 hours
Return 19:00 hours
DAY 2
"Puritama Hot Springs"
Departure 08:00 to 08:30 hours
(pick up from hotel/hostel)
Return 13:00 hours
"Lagoon Cejar"
Departure 15:00 hours
Return 19:00 hours
DAY 3
"El Tatio Geysers"
Departure 05:00 to 05:30 hours
(pick up from hotel/hostel)
Return 13:30 hours
“ Life can flourish even in the harshest of conditions, resilience and adaptability are the secret to it! ”
– Raynard Jackle
Advice on Acclimatization & Adapting the Climate
It usually take 1-2 days for your body to adjust to high altitude, so if you’re not in any hurry, take it slow and spend a couple nights at San Pedro de Atacama (2,408 meters) before hitting higher altitude like El Tatio Geysers (4,320 meters). This will give your body time to adapt to a lower level of oxygen and pressure.
- Drink More Water than you’d normally drink at home. As you gain altitude, your body tends to lose water and salt faster than you’re used to.
- Chew Coca Leaves, it helps with the altitude and also wake your body up (its a natural stimulant). Drinking coca leaf tea helps too.
- Get Enough Sleep, one of the symptoms of altitude sickness is insomnia, so it can be hard to get enough rest. However, a good night’s sleep can do wonders to help you kick the problem.
- Wearing Layers is the best way to deal with the Atacama’s changing temperatures. Take note that with the sun, it can reach more than 27 degrees Celsius but the temperature drops instantly in the shade due to the lack of humidity. During night time, it can go below -10 degrees Celsius.
- Sun Protection is a must because at this altitude, you will get sunburn easily.
Where to Stay?
I booked a 3 nights stay at Sol Atacama Hostel back in 2014, we arrived at the hostel pretty late, it was at least after 2100. But the staff Alfredo who was working at the hostel that time was very welcoming and helpful in assisting our check-in and explained to us a little bit about San Pedro de Atacama and the Must-Not-Miss Attractions in the desert.
After settling down in our room and we made our decision for the tour, Alfredo helped us to make the booking the following day, he is extremely helpful, a very genuine guy.
Atacama Desert was the first stop of my Chiléan adventure and I was already receiving the hospitality and kindness from the people, it was a great start of my trip.
We had become friends since and we are still keeping in touch.
San Pedro de Atacama is a small town and it’s easy to navigate around by walking. If you would like to have quick access to restaurants, bars, shopping, tour agencies, supermarket, post office, etc., try to look for your accommodation around the main street, Caracoles, or somewhere close.
Check out booking.com and airBnB to look for something you like.
My Video at Atacama Desert
Take a look at my travel video in Atacama Desert and you will see how otherworldly this place is, the vastness & emptiness of this desert somehow opened up all my senses, I felt totally invigorated.